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I survived on coffee & cigs as a model, our size 0 obsession is dangerous… and back in full force, says Sophie Anderton

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SEEING pictures from Paris Fashion Week recently, I felt my blood run cold.

The French capital showcased more than 100 designers and almost 5,000 looks.

Sophie Anderton instagram, https://www.instagram.com/sophie.anderton/
Sophie Anderton felt her blood run cold when she saw that fashion from the Nineties was making a comeback
Yves Saint Laurent catwalk fashion show Spring/Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week, in France in September 2021..CAP/GOL.©GOL/Capital Pictures
A model on the catwalk for Yves Saint-Laurent in 2021
Rick Gold / Capital Pictures
Mandatory Credit: Photo by News Group/REX/Shutterstock (250364o)..Jodie Kidd on the catwalk..JODIE KIDD RETROSPECTIVE
It brings to mind Jodie Kidd’s look from back in the day, even though the model has recently spoken up about the extreme lengths models went to in order to stay thin
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Of those near-5,000 just THIRTY NINE were considered curve or plus-size.

From Chloe to Victoria Beckham and Yves Saint Laurent, designers unleashed hordes of heroin-chic skinny models back on the runway, in a cavalcade of pronounced thigh gaps and razor-sharp collarbones.

It was like the Nineties all over again.

As a model who shot to fame back then, I was in the thick of it all.

In between fronting a high-profile Wonderbra campaign for Gossard, and walking the runway for Vivienne Westwood and Ralph Lauren, I saw first-hand just how damaging the size-zero obsession was.

This was the decade of cigarettes and addiction.

Size 12 was plus-size, and girls quietly slid into anorexia and bulimia while agents turned a blind eye — until it became a problem.

Jodie Kidd recently spoke out about models of our era going to extreme lengths to stay thin, from eating cotton balls to taking speed.

It was a surprise to me — I never saw this, but girls were encouraged to be a size zero.

I was just 16 when I walked the Paris runways for the first time, my adrenaline pumping.

It was brilliant fun, but really, it’s no wonder these girls look exhausted — there was barely time to eat, not that you would even want to.

Surviving on a diet of coffee and cigarettes, I saw food as “bad”, and there was no information to tell me otherwise.

Size six with 34in hips, I was never going to fit into the heroin chic category and, of course, I was conscious and hyper-critical of my body.

I can vividly remember the hundreds of eyes following me on the catwalk, and to this day I won’t weigh myself, I can’t bear it.

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Kate Moss at a Vivienne Westwood fashion show at Paris Fashion Week back in the day[/caption]
FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY. Gucci - Milan Fashion Week. Ready to Wear. Autumn/Winter 2024. ......
And a Gucci look from this decade that looks suspiciously similar
Camera Press

I remember having a tape measure wrapped around my waist and being told by male agents to lose weight to stay the same size I was advertised as.

Nowadays, that would be seen as abuse, but back then, it was just part of the job.

If your card said you were a size zero, you had to measure a size zero.

It might sound cruel, but it was what we signed up for.

In 2009, I changed my priorities and my entire lifestyle. I threw myself into nutrition, health and fitness and found a proper balance.

I’m now 46 and while I’m still a size six, I’m mentally and physically healthier and have never been so happy with how I feel about myself.

Meanwhile, the fashion industry seemed to be on its own journey towards embracing body positivity.

In recent years, runaways became noticeably more diverse, with plus-size models like Paloma Elsesser and Ashley Graham fronting Vogue, and Valentino being praised a couple of years ago for sending UK size 10 and 12 models down the catwalk.

We’d come so far in learning to love our bodies — but now it seems all that progress could be undone.

I have three step-daughters and would be devastated if they looked at those pictures from Paris Fashion Week and believed they had to look like that, too.

I’m constantly asking them not to see women on social media and catwalk shows as the norm.

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Victoria Beckham Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
This model at a Victoria Beckham Ready to Wear fashion show could have been straight out of the Nineties
Getty
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 29: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Chloé Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang/Getty Images)
The same is true of this look from Maison Chloé
Getty

So many children today have body dysmorphia, because people are editing their own bodies into shapes impossible to achieve.

Stars like the Kardashians have suddenly lost their curves, while social media has been flooded with thigh gaps and jutting hip bones in low-rise jeans.

TikTok may have banned the hashtag #thinspo, but that doesn’t mean that content isn’t there under another name.

So how can we halt the full-blown return of size zero?

As well as enlisting more plus-size models, the industry needs to address models’ extreme schedules, and how they can manage their health.

I’d like to think that these days, agencies are not knowingly casting models with eating disorders, and that they would provide encouragement to seek support from medical professionals and nutritionists.

These girls are not cattle, they’re human beings, and they have a duty of care to give them the support and education they need about their bodies.

Take it from someone who lived through it — a return to ’90s thinness would be a disaster for both the fashion industry and girls across the country.

In this day and age, diversity should be a given on the catwalk, not a novelty.

It’s time to reset the clock to 2024 and celebrate every body, not just one.

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 23: Ashley Graham walks the runway during the Dolce Gabbana Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Model Ashley Graham dons a Dolce & Gabbana look that shows that the modern day has embraced diversity when it comes to body types
Getty
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: Paloma Elsesser walks the runway at the Marni fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 on February 23, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Marco M. Mantovani/Getty Images)
We can also see this with Paloma Elsesser, who appeared at Milan Fashion Week
Getty
Mandatory Credit: Photo by Mark Large/Daily Mail/REX/Shutterstock (1115665a) London Fashion Week. Vivienne Westwood Designs. Modelled By Sophie Anderton. London Fashion Week. Vivienne Westwood Designs. Modelled By Sophie Anderton.
Sophie Anderton as an It Girl back in the Nineties
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